BACK AT LAST Introducing Our New "Home Dulce Home" in the Andes

Can you belive it? I'm finally back to finish the tale of our house-building journey, and to humbly show you the final result ~ our new "Casa Andina" (Andean house). If you're reading this, it's either because you're a faithful reader friend who hasn't yet given up on me, or you've stumbled upon Fancy Free Retirees for the first time. Either way, thanks so much for being here!


My last post (shamefully!) was almost (gasp!) 10 months ago. Since then Jeff and I have been lucky enough to be able to create an entirely new and different life here in Ecuador. We had really enjoyed living in Cuenca, but are now happy to be "campesinos" (country folk) living at 10,800 feet. Here we are, high in the Andes, where breezes are cooler and those same winds are pretty much all you hear besides the occasional bird. We love it!

Much like any other such venture, the building process here suffered from its own set of "hiccups" along the way. Nothing major, but certainly no fun. Our first crew quit because of the cold (around 40F in the rain and fog which was common the first couple of months); an architect/builder who insisted on calling everything an "extra" (even though we ended up buying most materials anyway and Jeff installed the plumbing and built the fireplaces and pizza oven); and we had a head worker, or "maestro", who continually butted heads with Jeff because Jeff had his "Gringo" way of doing things. But as Jeff says, "we got her done".  And although there's still a ways to go to finish details, we're really happy with the results.  Here's a peek:

The view from the terrace and guest bathroom.

The fantastic pizza oven. I get to cook everything in it - breakfast, lunch and dinner. 
It heats the house beautifully, too!

   

We're getting there trying to make the house a home. A local artist did the special art glass scenes - chickens and all!

Here's a look at the inside rooms. As I said, there are plenty of details to finish, but it's a start. 

I know what you're 
thinking. "What the heck do you do all day up there?"

Aha!  I promise to tackle that one in the next blog. Hope to see you there!

BUILDING HIGH IN THE SKY ~ WITH A LITTLE BIT OF HELP FROM OUR FRIENDS

Okay, I’ll admit it. The idea of building a house ~
any house,
any where - intimidated the heck out of me. It’s hard enough in the States when you speak the same language, and I’ve heard many a horror story about never-ending problems and marriages on the brink. So, would we survive this one as we ventured to build high up in the Ecuadorian Andes? So far, I’m happy to say, so good.

Jeff and I definitely attribute much of our success to the amazing help we’ve gotten from FRIENDS near and far. For starters, we'd had the chance to witness daring amigos brave enough to do it in a foreign country - in a foreign language - when we lived in Costa Rica. No doubt about it, there are definitely differences in the way “WE” do things, and the ways “THEY” do. From architectural design to construction techniques; labor laws and tools used (or lack thereof); you end up treading some pretty distinct waters.  Here are a few lessons we’ve learned so far...

COMMUNICATION IS KEY

I speak spanish, but the first thing Jeff and I completely agreed upon was the need to hire a

bilingual architect/contractor (they’re one in the same here). Why? Because first of all, my construction vocabulary is nil in both languages ~ let alone my understanding of building concepts. I would have been useless. I also didn’t want to be the go-between and end up running a crew. The last thing a guy wants to hear is how to do something differently, and coming from a woman, no less. I’m no fool. Fortunately we found an Ecuadorian architect who’d been trained in New Jersey, so he understands both countries’ perspectives on building. It’s worked out great, and who knows?  It may have saved a marriage.

JACKS OF ALL TRADES

In my biased (and adoring) mind, Jeff can pretty much do it all. He designed the house, taught himself to draw up the plans on computer, and now goes off “to work” every day as excited as ever. He’s building the fireplaces and indoor pizza oven while the crew builds the walls up around him and couldn’t be happier. Best of all, though, we’ve got incredibly talented friends who have guided him through what he doesn’t know - from masonry to plumbing to electricity. His buddies may not be here, but they’ve certainly been right there for Jeff on Skype and Facetime, readily sharing their expertise. 

Our master timber-framer friend Bob actually has come all the way down to work. He's been up there building one-of-a-kind rafters and trusses, all the while acclimating to the 10,800 ft. elevation. No doubt, the Ecuadorian crew have been intrigued, and often befuddled, at Bob’s precision and craft. Still, they’ve shown great interest in the unique way in 
                                                 which he brings it all together. Very cool.

THE RIGHT TOOLS

Jeff’s mantra: No matter what you’re doing, you’ve gotta have the right tools. Of course, he didn’t have any when we first arrived, and little by little has had to set himself up. The boys on the job, however, somehow manage to get things accomplished with very few to work with. It might not turn out as quickly or precisely, but the end result is always pretty great. They’ve borrowed Jeff’s tools when wanting to expedite things, but otherwise, they’re incredibly clever at just making it work.

WHERE WOULD WE BE WITHOUT OUR FRIENDS?   
                                                                              

Once again, we’re incredibly grateful to have great friends. Yet another couple, Karl and Brenda, were coming down to Cuenca to live. And what did they ever so graciously bring for us in their container? Oh, just ‘little” things like a dishwasher, kitchen and bath plumbing fixtures ~ along with a wood stove and radiant heat flooring supplies. Jeff is determined to keep me warm up there, so we’ve now got everything we need to take the chill off; and we’ll have special touches we might not otherwise have had. Now that’s a blessing.

No, I’ve got that wrong. The blessing isn’t only in the finer trappings, but in the fact that we’ve got such special friends who have each had a hand in the building of our home. We can't wait to be toasting them, the talented crew, and the architect/contractor 
in December when we expect to 
move in. And with any luck, they’ll all be there together with us at our very first pizza and chancho (roast pig) party! As they say here, ¡Ojalá que sí!  (Sure do hope so!)

Why WOULDN'T You? Part Two

Blame it on the Libra in me, but making decisions isn’t always easy. I go back and forth, back and forth, weighing the pros and cons ~ until finally coming to a choice that I know is just right. I then dive in, expecting only the best to happen and for everything naturally to fall into place. Somehow it usually does.

No matter where we go, or whatever the decision, I really do think that the magic is in our expectations. I’ve had the chance to live in several countries, and at this point I can pretty well spot right away which expats are going to succeed, and those who most likely will not, based on what they appear to expect out of the experience. Some arrive full of life, minds and eyes fully open, totally psyched about their new adventure. And others? Not so much. It makes me wonder why they’ve come in the first place. Was it to escape the political situation back home? For financial reasons? Medical? Whatever the reasons, they don’t seem to have done their “due diligence”. It’s easy enough to research a potential destination thoroughly online, but more importantly, it’s

essential to know one’s own self and one’s needs. It's also helpful to try to envision yourself living in the distinct environment to see if it’s “a match".  Sure, there’s no way to anticipate everything, but at least those steps are good start. It's probably best of course, to visit the place to get acquainted first. In this, Jeff and I were probably not all that wise. We just jumped in and went down to Costa Rica and bought a house within the first week, and then moved on to Cuenca with four suitcases without ever having seen it. I guess we're not so good "looking before we leap”, though I promise that we did do our “due diligence” in those other ways. Oh, well. It seems to work for us! 

No doubt, relatively inconsequential things like Changing Weather and living in a country with a different Language would most likely not scare anyone with high expectations away. Nor will the following I’ll talk about ~ Boredom and Creature Comforts ~  be deal-breakers either, in and of themselves.  But again, our needs, tolerances, expectations, and attitudes have a direct impact on our success, and even more so in a foreign country. It’s at least something to think about.

BOREDOM

Even with all the activities, museums, and cultural events available here in Cuenca, retirement is retirement no matter where you are. Suddenly

you’re learning to fill your days in completely different ways ~ exciting for some and daunting for others. I’ve mentioned before that Jeff had became terribly bored here in the city, despite all its offerings. He’s one of those hands-on, physically active guys (read: ADHD candidate?), who gets up every morning and needs to build or fix something. Forget the museums and the symphonies, that’s just not him. I, on the other hand, love all that stuff but am also very content at my computer, cleaning house, getting together with friends, reading or writing. Boredom isn’t even a blip on my radar screen, but it definitely was for Jeff. For some reason I’ve seen it more in the men we know - they simply need to move. Hmmm... In any case, again, my advice is to “know thyself” and jump into whatever makes you happy and keeps you growing.

OF CREATURE COMFORTS & INSTANT GRATIFICATION

There’s nothing like living overseas to make you realize just how much the U.S. and Canada are truly “lands of plenty”. Every time I go back and enter a store, I’m completely blown away by the quantity and quality of goods everywhere. It's actually overwhelming. Talk about this Libra trying to make a choice. Yikes!

Ecuador is also a land of plenty, but in different ways. Here, most material things are available, though not excessive in terms of choice. Not that you need to compromise on quality, because there are often good-better-best options, just not as many.  For us, though, having “stuff” is no longer a priority.We’re extremely fortunate to have our needs met and live comfortably, so now being “full” in life is much more important. The beauty of this city and this country is astounding. Getting to enjoy the incredible blend of indigenous and hispanic cultures makes us feel rich beyond words. And most valuable of all, we’re really seeing and feeling life for the first time - away from the hurried pressures of the States. Even retired, I’m not sure if that would be true if we still lived there. 

Everything is just plain slower here. And though for us that’s a good

thing, for someone else it might be too nerve-wracking to deal with long-term. Getting any kind of business done is liable to take more than one try, and service may be slower than we’re used to. That instant

gratification thing we’ve got going simply doesn’t work down here (nor anywhere else in Latin America I know of). At first that’s an adjustment most of us struggle with. In all our impatience our blood pressure rises as we become frustrated and angry. Venting it the way we’re accustomed to simply doesn’t work down here and won’t get you any farther. Good old-fashioned patience and respectful behavior are the only options you’ve got. I like it!

To be totally honest, I personally only know of only a few people who have left Cuenca to return to North America so far, and their reasons were attributed to some of the above along with other strident personal concerns. My purpose for writing really is to point out some of the greatest overall complaints I hear, because no place is ever perfect. For some they may be deal-breaking; for most, not at all. I go back to my original premise: know thyself and thy needs, know thy destination, have high expectations for success, and definitely have a great, open attitude. You can’t help but lose!

RELOCATING TO CUENCA ~ Why WOULDN'T You?

Without a doubt, Cuenca is a burgeoning destination for retirees, especially for North Americans. I’ve often mentioned its most attractive features and benefits. But what are the “down” sides that would make someone turn right back around and leave? 

Yes, it happens. People take the big leap to make a new home here, only to decide that Cuenca simply isn't "a match" for them. But why? Here's my take on a few considerations.

THE WEATHER

One of the running jokes you’ll hear about Cuenca is that you get to experience spring, summer, and fall all in one day ~ every day.  One minute you’ll be walking down the street enjoying (or sweating through) the intense heat of the sun, only to feel an immediate switch to cool under a fast moving wave of wind and clouds. You put on that sweater. Minutes later you're whipping out the umbrella to deal with a flash onslaught of rain. Then you smile. In the distance you spot bright blue sky and sunshine to step back into. Geesh! 

June through September the temperatures drop significantly at night. We typically like to hang out on the terrace as if it were summer, but these months bring such clear, dry air that it forces us to hunker down and break out the propane space heater to be comfortable. At least the sunsets and starry night sky are beautiful.

By making a habit of carrying a light sweater/jacket and umbrella, you're guaranteed to be fine. But most of all, prepare yourself with a good attitude. The weather rarely stops us in our tracks, but it does get pretty gray for longer periods of time than we’d like sometimes. I like to think it only makes us appreciate the sunshine all the more.

LANGUAGE

Yes, Spanish is the native tongue. For some ridiculous reason that fact seems to come as a surprise to a few who land here, and occasionally I hear of some rude expat having demanded that locals speak English. Thankfully it's rare, but boy, I find myself wanting to tell them where to go...oops... where else to go (!) Most people we know have come with the best intentions to make every effort to learn. Not only is that wise, but naturally, it's also respectful of one’s new country and its people.

Jeff and I are fortunate in that I learned Spanish somewhat by fluke by
getting my first teaching job in Guatemala. There I was on the streets, desperately needing to express my extrovert self. I tried formal courses, but was overwhelmed amidst trying to establish myself professionally at the same time. Hence, I learned by immersion - with a really cute non-English speaking boyfriend and his family, no less. Ahhh, Manuel, such fond memories... Anyway, later I moved on to a job in Barcelona and improved my grammar somewhat. I still don’t speak perfectly, especially with those tricky grammatical twists that don't exist in English. Still, I can “defend myself” fairly well, as the saying goes in spanish.

I won’t lie. It’s no picnic - especially when you first arrive. Negotiating your way around to set up services like banking, internet, telephone, and TV can be totally frustrating. Yet still, all of our friends have gotten it done. But how?

Spanish for Gringos. I love this introductory book by William C. Harvey, M.S.
Simple, fun, and easy to understand.

• One thing I’ve noticed is that often at least one partner in every couple either has a basic foundation in Spanish, is highly motivated to learn, and/or both. When both are learning, many couples break off into different classes in order to learn at their own paces and to avoid competing with each other.

• Many Cuencanos are bilingual. Some have been exchange students or have worked in North America, while others learned in school here. A growing number offer their services as translators and will help you to acquire whatever is needed, from finding an apartment to getting your internet set up. They may charge $15 or so per hour, and can be worth every penny. Also, more and more businesses are expressly hiring bilingual employees to accommodate the huge influx of English-speaking foreigners. What a help that can be!

So, is it possible to get by without attempting to learn Spanish? Yes, but not preferable. You can easily settle into your network of expats friends and not interact much with your Ecuadorian hosts at all. But why would you want to? You’d simply miss out on knowing some of the warmest and wonderful people ever.  

I’ll be covering a few more reasons in the next blog as to why some expats may decide that Cuenca isn’t the place for them. We’re all searching for our personal paradise, and every place has its ups and downs; pluses and minuses. It’s a matter of knowing who you are and what you need, and what you can and cannot tolerate when making any place your home. Join me in what’s up next. If you’re considering a move to Cuenca, maybe it’ll enlighten you. And if not, hopefully it'll just give you a clearer vision of what it’s all about.