PETITE SOPHISTICATE

Cuenca has become one of the world’s top retirement destinations, and after four months, we already know why. While searching online for our next home country after Costa Rica, Ecuador kept coming into view and most specifically this city. There’s a wealth of information out there, though, and when you read about the almost-paradise “number 1’s” in the world (especially from real estate developers), it gets you to wondering what the reality really is. 

So far, Cuenca is definitely everything we’d hoped and read about. Granted, we’ve found a few negatives, too, just as anywhere else. I’ll share those with you a little later, but first I want to shout out its virtues. As I’ve mentioned before, this little city has lots of them. We’ve seen its spanish colonial and indigenous threads. But now you’re probably wondering what everyday people here, and everyday life, are like.

“Cuencanos”, the people of Cuenca, are a definite reason to want to call this home. They’re warm, welcoming, and tend to be an exceptionally generous-spirited people. It only takes the mention of a need or hope, and it seems like they’re going out of their way to make it happen for you. Looking for an apartment? One man literally closed up his shop to take us to two different possibilities he’d thought of.  Stop and ask for directions? No worries - I’ll walk you there. Got a flat bike tire? Throw that bike in my flatbed and we’re on our way to get it fixed. Strangers with no place to go for Christmas? Please join our family - we’d love to have you. Even their unique “sing-song” way of speaking spanish is upbeat and joyful. Have we met some who are not quite so wonderful? Well yes, of course. Usually, though, they've simply acted indifferent. Rude is an anomaly here.

Cuencanos value family and friends in a way that brings me back to the way I was brought up. There’s laughter and love and a simple appreciation for sharing time together - no matter how old you are. I especially love watching teens. They’re smart and savvy, and yet still interact with a playful, sweet innocence, apparently untainted by today’s aggressiveness. As is the case with their parents, many go to the States or Canada for a year abroad and speak English beautifully. They are comfortable and respectful with adults. Most typically still don’t leave home until marriage.

Cuencanos are sophisticated. They’re hard-working, professional, and upwardly-mobile. They carry themselves with dignity, dress proudly and often elegantly. But what I respect more than anything is their good old-fashioned morals and values. They manage to live up to date in this crazy world and yet still maintain a a wholesome goodness and touch of class at the same time. A feat, for sure.

Okay, so I’ve lauded over Cuenca’s people. But there’s also the wonderful food, great variety of things to do here, easy transportation to do them all, and even accessible, quality goods. Not to mention that the systems enable you to establish yourself here pretty easily - but that’s a subject for another day. 

I know. You’re waiting for the negatives I mentioned I mentioned earlier. Well, all right. We just came from the jungle, so city life has its "things". Our biggest complaint is that the air quality can get really agitating, especially around the city center. Bus fumes are nasty, and it's especially tough to breathe when you’re trying to get used to the altitude here, too. I also dislike the graffiti immensely - it’s splayed across some of the most beautiful buildings it makes me want to cry. Often the words and images attempt to be poetic or revolutionary, but it’s still just plain ugly and offensive to me.  Car alarms also seem to be well-loved and they are known to be left to sound off for hours. But the funkiest thing of all is a crazy neighborhood guard who bikes all around blowing a silly, obnoxious whistle at all hours - for what purpose we haven't figured out. All I know is that when he wakes me up at 4 a.m. definite thoughts of homicide come to mind. 

So that’s the essence of Cuenca’s beautiful tapestry. I’ll write more about our personal daily life later, but hopefully that gives a modest overview. 

Are you a city mouse or country mouse? Having experienced both, I can personally go either way. Do you have a preference?