THREADS THAT BIND

As I'd mentioned in the last blog, I see our new home, the city of Cuenca, Ecuador, as having three distinct personalities woven into one rich tapestry. 


Cuenca originates primarily from two of Ecuador’s important indigenous populations - the Cañari and the Inca. The Cañari had originally inhabited the region, but lost their territory to the Inca just 500 years before the Spanish arrived in the 1550's. Apparently the Spaniards had come in search of “El Dorado” - the fabled “City of Gold” they'd heard the Inca had built here. Mysteriously, though, the Inca had actually abandoned the famed area before they came, and by design by the Inca or not, the Spaniards found no such thing. Ultimately, however, the result is Cuenca’s unique blended personality of very distinct heritages, religions, languages and customs.

What I find most amazing is how the indigenous peoples here have managed to preserve their history and traditions amidst the incongruous backdrop of city life. It’s unique enough to see women wearing their traditional native dress of royally colored velveteen skirts with hand-embroidered hems, their long braided hair peeking out from Panama hats (which, by the way, actually originated in Ecuador!) as they go about their daily lives. But to see them juxtaposed beside modern women in professional dress (or tight jeans) and stiletto heels walking the same cobblestone streets is even more incredible. What a wonderful world!

Typically I find indigenous people to be private; not terribly eager to engage with others outside their community. That’s not to say they are rude, just reserved, or shy ~ or maybe even humble.  Many, if not most, speak spanish as well as their native Quechua (pronounced Keechwa), or a mixture of the two. As with the vast majority of Ecuadorians, family and religion are of utmost importance. Catholicism is predominant, yet many seem to blend into it their reverence for Mother Earth (Pacha Mama), or co-existing in harmony with nature. 

Agriculture is still very much at the heart of the indigenous here. Meandering through the open markets is simply wonderful - and overwhelming. Everywhere you turn, gorgeous vegetables, fruits, grains (many I can’t yet identify), woven baskets, etc. all call out to you. And yes, there are some pretty scary-looking un-refrigerated meats and fish, too, which of course we avoid. Our favorite place, though, is a little flower market right by the cathedral. For $10 we get a huge bouquet of flowers - enough to fill several big vases. Our amiga Teresa gets a kick out of stuffing Jeff’s backpack, and then watching him drive away on his bicycle with the flowers spurting up out from behind his head. Now that’s a Gringo who gets attention and smiles all the way home!

When I look at the dignified, often weathered, faces of the indigenous people here, it stirs a nothing but wonder and respect. I watch them bathe or wash the family’s clothes in the roaring river. I marvel at both women and men carrying great loads on their backs, dependent on selling at least a few of their wares to subsist. I spy children taking care of children, pitching in to help their mothers. Strength is required of them always. Yet they laugh, and sing, and work side by side - bound together into a community richer than many of us will ever know. Community and togetherness is their key to happiness and life well-lived. Wow. What a concept...