'TIS THE SEASON

CHRISTMAS.  As the years go by its significance has changed for me, and I’m not sure I like it. As a child it was everything it’s meant to be ~ a delightful balance between celebrating the birth of the baby Jesus and the excitement of Santa coming down the chimney. 

My parents were devout Catholics who took us to church every Sunday, and religion was a natural, easy part of our lives. It guided me, comforted me, fascinated me. Setting out the nativity scene at Christmas time was one of my favorites. I imagined Mary and Joseph on their journey, full of innocence and pride. I loved getting to place that tiny little baby in the manger, destined to change the world.

The meaning of Christmas began to change for me when it evolved into a month of obligatory spending money I didn’t have. I resisted as much as I could not to get myself into debt, but it wasn’t easy. Thankfully I didn’t have kids! I honestly don’t understand how families do it at all, (much less why, with means or not). It felt all about adult peer pressure I didn’t want to buy into. Being overseas, I don’t miss that aspect of the holiday at all.

Despite that craziness, I always loved bringing Christmas into my home. On “decorating day” I’d set up my freshly cut little tree, put on my favorite holiday CD’s, and break out my three boxes of adornments. I’d made a tradition of treating myself to a unique ornament every year, and special memories flooded back as each was lifted out of the box. It was my own sacred ritual, one I've always treasured.

But alas, all that changed when we moved away from the States. We didn't bring in a container to Costa Rica, so we had to give up most of our possessions. That was actually pretty easy to do, except for those ornaments. They ended up getting weeded down to the favorites, and put upstairs in my mother-in-law’s garage. I couldn’t let go.

Now that we’re in Ecuador, I’m still missing that dang box. Funny thing is, my friends and I were talking yesterday, and they’ve had to do the same thing and feel the same way. It’s like walking away from your favorite photos ~ it’s walking away from your history. There are very few things we miss, but those are the biggest. Thankfully this one’s a once-in a-year challenge, but a tough one all the same. I’d give anything to get that box down here!

The religious aspect of Christmas has eluded me for awhile now, too. I’ve been through the (probably not atypical) struggle of questioning my Catholicism, and worse yet, the concept of God itself. I won’t get into that here, but suffice it to say that there are times I long for the unequivocal faith I once had. I guess that’s what trying to intellectualize faith can do. But that’s my issue...

Anyway, what I want to say is that despite Christmas having changed for me, I still adore the way Cuenca still celebrates its holy origins. We wake to church bells every morning and enjoy the religious symbols lit up everywhere. We love the massive parade of children all dressed up as shephards, angels, and Wise Men for the Paso de Los Niños on the on the 24th. We wonder at the loud booms of fireworks going off at all hours through December, but that’s the fun of it. At least here people are celebrating the right things for the right reasons.

Last but not at all least, Christmas is still about family ~ the thing I miss most of all. The laughter, the craziness, the love. Family was everything for my parents, and the holidays were our favorite times together. They still are. We are ~ dare I say it? ~ BLESSED to have been raised with a solid foundation of a loving family. Not being there with them gets to me every year -especially on Christmas Eve when we usually get together. Still, here we know families who gather for nine nights at various houses to celebrate of the coming of the baby Jesus. All month we see and feel much of what it used to be for us. We see and feel what it’s meant to be. 

Hey, maybe deep down Christmas hasn’t changed as much for me as I think...

A GOOD TIME WAS HAD BY ALL

As I’ve mentioned before, one great thing about living here in Cuenca is how easy it is to make friends. In the last blog I talked about our “Cuencano” amigos, and still yet, we “Gringos” (slang for North Americans) seem to be everywhere, too. Over the course of the last year we’ve met many friends on the street, in supermarkets, restaurants, and in and around our neighborhood. 

We all stand out a bit, even to each other, so if there’s a spark of interest on both parts you easily get into the typical “how we ended up here in Cuenca” stories. From there you discover all you have in common (or not, as the case may be). 

 So, with all the great friends we’ve come to know and love over the past year, I yearned to bring everyone together for a one big party. Our apartment has a lot of outdoor terrace space, and it’s large enough to handle a fairly decent crowd (especially if it doesn’t rain.)                       

                                                                                                                              But what would we celebrate? Well, October is both Jeff’s and my birthday month, but we didn’t want that to be the focus. So what the heck? It turned into a 
“We’re Getting Older, and Getting Better” party to celebrate everyone's birthday, no matter when it was.

And to make it even more special, our dearest friends Fran & Randy from Costa Rica came all the way to join us. Woohoo!

Of course, if you’re going to celebrate properly around here, you need to do it “a la Cuencana”. That means that a party isn’t a party unless it’s centered around a “chancho” (roasted pig). As luck would have it, a local catering service comes to your home with the whole pig (tasty head and all!), golden rice, mote pillo (hominy), salad and dessert. They even bring the plates and utensils and serve buffet style. We had over 40 people, and the entirely reasonable cost was under $300.Now that’s a bargain.

Now of course, I’d envisioned the buffet to be served outside on the terrace under the tents we’d rented. But at exactly 4:00pm (after a gorgeous sunny day, no less), guests started to arrive and that’s when the sky opened up. It rained so hard and sideways, the caterers had no choice but to set up in the narrow kitchen (which already included the very active bar.) But that didn’t stop anyone. The rum punch and everything else flowed, appetizers nibbled, and then the incredible chancho feast was served. Thankfully the rain passed through quickly, so people could still go outside to eat at the tables as planned. 

Once that was all done, the music was cranked up, the glittery hats donned, and it was 
time to PAARTTY!

What a great gang. We were ridiculously silly, danced like nuts, and just had way too much fun. The age range went from four months old (our newly “adopted” grandbaby Juanito), to seventy-eight. Yep. We’re getting older and getting better all the time. 





Okay, so some might call it “regressing”, but they’re probably
 not having nearly as much fun...

As you get older, are you getting better? I remember my father insisting that with age came wisdom. I'm not quite so sure about that, but I do think our generations may be wiser about living life more fully in midlife and beyond. What do you think?

CELEBRATING OUR FIRST ANNIVERSARY ECUADORIAN-STYLE

Happy, thriving, and most definitely grateful. That pretty well describes how Jeff and I feel about our new life. Monday marked our first anniversary in Cuenca, and boy, did we ever celebrate Ecuadorian-style over the weekend.

You know how twists and turns in life can lead you to some pretty great things, right? Well, it just so happened that before we came here, my niece mentioned she’d worked in New York with a lovely Ecuadorian who had just returned to his country. She hooked us up via email, and serendipitously, he came from Cuenca. Knowing few people after we'd arrived, Javier and his wife Gabriela most graciously invited us to spend Christmas Day with their family. What a blessing. We laughed and teased in Spanish and English with family and friends, young and older. We shared biographies and sentimentalities and felt completely welcome and at home.Their genuine warmth was incredible.

And then the we committed the most terrible sin - we lost touch. Jeff and I went back into the frenzy of building our lives here and never called. No excuses, just red-faced shame. Thankfully we got to see Javier and Gabriela on occasion, and got to share in the joy of their beautiful new son. We've also become great friends with Javier’s mom as well. But still, we knew the treasure we’d found in his entire family, and knew we our folly in letting that go. So when Javier’s dad called to invite us to their family’s hacienda in the country, we jumped at the chance reconnect.

The family's 60 hectare hacienda was bought and built about 50 years ago. It’s spread out into four adobe buildings, each with simple rustic bedrooms and bathrooms - enough to accomodate fifty to sixty people. It’s got a kitchen, large main dining area, and a fireplaced dance hall. The outdoor party/dining area is awesome, too - adobe hearth and all.

We started out in that area where we encountered the typical main hit of an Ecuadorian party: the “chancho” (pig). There it sat on the spit, just as you see them everyday on roadsides, a definite Ecuadorian favorite meal. But today we would come to experience chancho like never before ~ in every way imaginable...

First up was watching the skin being basted with pig fat and then blow-torched. That was our first appetizer ~ crunchy and yummy, but probably not very good for 

your health. I couldn’t help but comment on that, and my new friend Magui set me straight. She pointed out how her relatives have all lived well into their 80’s and above. Then I looked around. All chancho-loving people, and not an obese one among them. Hmmm...

Next came the pork fat, scraped off into little pieces and fried~ yep ~ in pig fat. They call it chicharrón. An amazing, healthy or not, pure treat.

On the side I watched as a woman and her son made up the “morcilla”, sausage casings stuffed with carrots, cabbage, rice ~ and pig’s blood.

The table was then set, and we were called to sit for the lovely soup of vegetables and nice chunks of pork.

The main lunch was served - diced pork in a lovely sauce with rice, salad, and ají,, which is a tasty sauce found on all tables here. 

Incredibly full, little did I know they were just getting started...

While all this was going on, guests kept coming, ending up around 50 or so. A contingent of young 20’s & 30-something cousins and friends weaved in and out of their group to connect with us “older folks”. That's another thing. We’re really impressed by the “kids” we’ve met here. They’re bright, career-oriented, and upwardly mobile. 

Most of all, they’re old-fashioned respectful with 

children and older adults. There’s definitely a mature sophistication about them.

That can be said about everyone there. The love and laughter poured out of everyone, punctuating Ecuadorian’s appreciation for family and friends. The beer, whiskey, rum, and canelazo (a lovely warm herbal drink with liqueur), flowed. Three of Javier's dad's best friends from grade-school were there, all joking together like the school boys they once were. As he put it, “we are generally very affectionate people. This is life.”  Ain’t that the truth.

No sooner had my stomach finally settled down, we were moved on to the dining hall for more. There awaited dinner: salad, "mote" (hominy), potato cakes, pork, and for dessert, fresh cheese with honey. I swear, I just-about rolled out of there.

Last but not least, the sun went down and a massive bonfire was lit. The kids broke out their guitars, singing away while we all partied together into the night. Yep. This is life, and we are honored to have been part of it. No better way to celebrate our first year anniversary here ~ in true Ecuadorian family-style.

SMACK DAB IN THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD

I loved geography when I was a kid. Globes were especially fascinating to me ~ all those colorful puzzle pieces uniting to create our one amazing world.  Even then I sensed that all the different cultures they represented had to be extraordinary, too. Maybe some day I’d get to know them...

The concepts of latitude, longitude, and the equator were also cool to me. I saw the order to things, the consistent and proper place for everything. Could I imagine ever standing on the actual equator line, with one foot in the northern hemisphere and the other in the southern? Was it even possible? I even remember loving the name Ecuador...who knew I’d get here?

On our way back home from Quito, Jeff, too, was determined to find the exact middle of the world. It was loosely marked on our map as a tourist destination, but we weren’t sure if we’d know it when we saw it. And then there it was - a special site in a town called Cayambe designed by an Ecuadorian scientific research group called Quitsato. The big sign hailed us: LA MITAD DEL MUNDO, or, THE MIDDLE OF THE WORLD.

We pulled off and into a totally empty parking lot and got out. Following a short path, we were surprised to come upon a massive stone sundial. Standing next to an informational display in the center of it was one lone young person, apparently waiting to teach whomever came by all about it.  And that he did, in English to boot, for the princely sum of $1.00. It was a fascinating presentation.

Excited, Jeff took out his GPS. We were definitely standing directly at 0 degrees longitude and 0 latitude. But the guide was telling us how, approximately 1000 years ago, the first inhabitants had actually built a monument of the middle of the world right on the top of Mount Catequilla nearby. No GPS, no technology ~ just plain astronomical and mathematical reasoning. Incredible. 

Turns out, the archaeological site of Mount Catequilla is precisely located at 0 0 00 on the equinoctial line. By studying other archeological sites nearby, Catequilla is believed to have been the center of a very complex organization of other sites that correlated to each other astronomically. Intriguing. We all know how scholars have often dismissed, or at best, underestimated, the astounding knowledge of our ancestors. It makes my heart glad to see that they’ve not only been proven correct, but also clearly exceptionally intelligent.

Standing in the middle of the solar clock, we were in direct line with another mountain in the distance called Mount Cayambe. We learned that it’s actually the highest point crossed by the equator, and the only place where the equator has snow cover. The presentation got even more interesting when right in front of us we could see how the shadow of the solar cylinder fell incredibly short ~ this because we were just days away from the September equinox. We were so disappointed not to have been able to be there to see the effect when the sun bore directly down the tube!

Well, at least we can say we once stood in the middle of the world. Fascinated with the presentation, we also ended up buying a $20 CD and poster set explaining the essential, and very intimate, role astronomy has played for our ancestors. Even today celestial phenomena like the equinoxes and solstices continue to impact our spiritual, agricultural, intellectual, and possibly even, our emotional lives. Thank heavens!

More information at www.quitsato.org

FOUR HUNDRED YEARS OF WELCOME

Pure and simple serendipity landed us at the Hacienda Cusin, circa 1602.

We’d spent a great day exploring Otavalo and Cotacachi and had considered finding a place to stay in the area. Unfortunately, though, the intense smoke of a local uncontrolled fire choked us so much we just had to get out of there.

So now what do we do? Passing through a lot of nothingness and a handful of one-horse towns, I sat with my iPhone to tap into trusty old Trip Advisor. We were all getting hungry and tired, and desperate to find us a decent place to lay our heads. The Hacienda Cusin kept coming up in nearby San Pablo del Lago, but I kept ignoring it because it was on the pricier side ($120 for the night). There wasn’t much else to choose from, though, and we were all feeling ready to just sit with a cocktail and chill. Okay, we said. Let’s bite the bullet.

Well, this is one bullet we’d take in again in a heartbeat. It wasn’t easy to find off the main thoroughfare, though, and we were frustrated not to see any signs. The GPS  struggled to locate it, so eventually we caved and stopped to ask for directions. Turns out it was directly off the highway, down a winding road through a little township. Once we arrived, it wasn’t hard to miss with its imposing white fortress-like walls that

                                           surround it. 

It was a quiet Monday at the hacienda, so when we checked in at reception we were graciously given lower room rates. We couldn’t believe our surroundings. Everywhere we looked we sensed its significant history.  We were escorted through pathways to our rooms, meandering through lovely paths and old-world buildings with period art and furniture. We passed vegetable and flower gardens and a working carpenter’s workshop. 

Ultimately we reached our guest cottage, complete with a full length front porch and rustic furniture. Each of our rooms had a personality of its own with a corner fireplace, unique furnishings, wall niches, bookshelves, and sitting areas. The baths are completely updated and modern. This was not a typical run-of-the-mill place to stay. Everything about it felt sweet and special.

Once settled in, we had our few cocktails on the porch and headed to the inn’s restaurant for dinner. It was a bit nippy both inside and outside the room, so it was arranged for fires to be set up in the hearths while we were eating. We entered the long, elegant dining room, framed in a massive wall tapestry with its old-world decorations. Once again I sensed the history deeply, half-expecting Simon Bolívar himself to walk in. Believe it or not, this absolutely could have happened at Hacienda Cusin in the early 1800’s. He was known to camp near San Pablo de Lago when in the Quito area during his campaigns to liberate Ecuador from the Spanish crown. The Chiriboga family apparently wasn’t in residence at the time, but it was definitely a possibility. Very cool.

I know this because we’d been provided an extensive written history of the hacienda when we checked in. Its approximately 50,000 hectares was originally purchased in 1602 by the wealthy Luna family of Spain as a dowry for their daughter’s marriage into the prominent Chiriboga family. Throughout the years, various Chiribogas owned it, although it wasn’t used consistently as a main home between until the early 1900’s by one of the female heirs Clementina. The farm was then turned into a guest and tourist destination in the late 1960’s by yet another family member, but was unsuccessful and ultimately left in disrepair. The Cusin was then sold outside of the Chiriboga family for the first time in the 1990’s to an eccentric Englishman who made massive renovations and put it on the map in 1993 when it was highlighted in The NY Times Sophisticated Traveler, Travel and Leisure, and the Condé Nast Traveler as well as a PBS program and other magazine articles. At that time the rate was $55 for a room including breakfast. Throughout the 90’s the inn continued to grow to include the Monastery and more guests rooms ~ easily accommodating grand weddings, conferences and fiestas.

Anyway, we finished the lovely meals and headed back to our rooms. The fires were raging beautifully and the rooms nice and toasty. We noticed two bumps on our bed and had to investigate. They were heated water bottles! Now that was one unique luxury I’d never expected. What an awesome sleep I wound up getting!

The next morning we checked out the entire property even further before heading on to Quito. It’s a fantastic place, horse stables, monastery and all. So, if you’re ever in this area of Ecuador, it’s a must-stay. We promise!

CONTACT INFORMATION
www.haciendacusin.com         hacienda@cusin.com.ec            tel (593) 6 291 8013/017

OUR STAY IN BANOS The Casa Amarilla

Moving on up to Baños, we arrived fairly early and decided to spend the day having fun in and around town instead of going right up to the Casa Amarilla (The Yellow House). That ended up to be a very good choice. You could spot it on the hillside if you looked up at it from town, and we knew there was no way to get up there but to hike or take a horse ride up (yeah, right - now that's me!). Better to do it later and only once, that's for sure!

I was a little anxious while we “played”, not knowing just what that hike up would entail. Would we find their parking spaces in town? I emailed, but didn’t get an immediate reply. Then I tried to call, but I didn’t have the right phone number exchange you have to dial first. It was late afternoon. We were cutting it close, and the rain and the dark started closing in. We knew we had to get up there. Just in time, a young guy at an internet cafe finally told us what numbers to dial. As easy as that, the young manager met us at the foot of the hill and set us up with parking. So we left most of our belongings safely and took what we needed in our backpacks. We were on our way!

No doubt about it. I huffed and puffed up that ragged path, light rain and all. It was about a 20 minute hike, and I was definitely happy to arrive. Once there, though, it was well worth it. The view of Baños and the surrounding mountains is wonderful. The inn itself is simple and homey, and the two young owners immediately made us feel welcome. We chatted with cocktails and appetizers while a lovely dinner was being cooked just for us, enjoying the view of the town from the front terrace walkway. Ahhh. Peace. Lovely after our active day of zip-lining, hiking to waterfalls, and zipping around in those buggies. 

The next morning we woke up to so much more. Cups of coffee in hand, we meandered through the pretty garden paths. Jeff spotted birds in a cage and called me over to meet his new warbling friends. We chatted with them for a bit, watched the sun come over the mountains and town. Tranquility at its best.

It wasn’t long before we had to be on our way again - this time to Quito. So we packed up and headed down the hill after a huge and wonderful breakfast, saying good bye to our lovely hosts. La Casa Amarilla is a special stay, but in light of the hike, I think it’s best for those on the “adventuresome” side. I also wonder if it would have gotten a little tough going up and down had we stayed for several days. But for that one night, it was definitely a sweet time. For its very reasonable rate, the Casa Amarilla is well worth the extra little trouble.

Facts: Casa Amarilla, Baños, Ecuador     email: pao475@hotmail.com

Telephone: (593) 099 973 2728    (593) 032 743 147

Special Stays Along the Avenue of the Volcanoes

Well, here they come! Finally. The blogs I’d promised devoted to the really great hotels we’d found along the Avenue of the Volcanoes. I know. Once again, I’d gotten way-laid. We’ve just been having too much fun with our friends visiting from Costa Rica. So sorry!

Anyway, as we traveled up the central valley from Alausi and the Devil’s Nose Train, we figured we’d head up to Riobamba and stay there for the night. I’d already consulted TripAdvisor, and had booked the Hosteria (hotel) “La Andaluza” based on its recommendations. Besides, I’d lived in Spain in the early 90’s and had been to the region of Andaluza. The dark woods and rich, country-regal style of old-world Spain featured in the hotel's photos brought back lovely nostalgic memories.

It also just so happened that friends were traveling a few days ahead of us, and had shot us an email to say they’d found an awesome place to stay. Coincidentally, it was The Andaluza. Now we knew we’d be fine.  Turns out they weren’t wrong about their description of Riobamba as a "trash pit", either. Not a pretty city at all. But as soon as you go through to the other side, the majestic Chimborazo Volcano looms to the left, and the hotel is right on the Pan American Highway on the right. Wild.

Now you’d think that any hotel on the highway is one to avoid. Yet the minute you drive down into its driveway with its tiffany-style lanterns and covered bridge walkway, all the noise magically disappears. You stand facing a complex of several lovely buildings, one marked grandly with a stunning wooden carving of an Indigenous woman. We felt like kids ~ excited to be treating ourselves to such a charming hotel. Dragging our suitcases over the bridge, we marveled at the colorful hanging flower baskets along the way, ultimately punctuated by thriving gardens, replete with white clawed bathtubs. 

We found the office to the right and stepped back in time. Antiques were everywhere. Furniture, clocks, elegant pieces ~ they all welcomed visitors. But then we got our keys and went down the long hallways, and got our breath knocked away. We passed antique sewing machines, Victorolas, and special rooms for reading and playing games. It was easy to sense that this was a hotel decorated and designed to please its guests. 

And then we walked into the room. Rose petals strewn over the beds. Chocolates on the pillows. A fresh fruit plate at the table for two. A desk and a large screen TV. Giggling, we opened the curtains a bit more to see outside. The room overlooked a courtyard gardens, a riding ring, and another building that turned out to be an event hall.

Lovely.

We spent the evening cozily by the fireplaces in the bar and restaurant. The next morning they had a great breakfast buffet (included in the price), to get us on our way. Without a doubt, we knew we’d back on the return trip. And that we were. 

That day we moved on northward to Baños, where we went to the Casa Amarilla, which I’ll talk about next. Stay tuned!

TRAVEL FACTS:

La Andaluza Hosteria   Panamericana Norte Km. 16 via a Ambato, Riobamba, Ecuador

www.hosterialaandaluza.com     

7 Suites, 13 Superior rooms, 35 standard rooms

Recommendation: We really enjoyed the rooms to the right as you go down the hall. On our second stay we were graciously upgraded to a larger suite on the left, but it was situated where you definitely could hear highway traffic. At our request, the staff happily switched us back to the room we’d had originally. Awesome!