BUILDING HIGH IN THE SKY ~ WITH A LITTLE BIT OF HELP FROM OUR FRIENDS

Okay, I’ll admit it. The idea of building a house ~
any house,
any where - intimidated the heck out of me. It’s hard enough in the States when you speak the same language, and I’ve heard many a horror story about never-ending problems and marriages on the brink. So, would we survive this one as we ventured to build high up in the Ecuadorian Andes? So far, I’m happy to say, so good.

Jeff and I definitely attribute much of our success to the amazing help we’ve gotten from FRIENDS near and far. For starters, we'd had the chance to witness daring amigos brave enough to do it in a foreign country - in a foreign language - when we lived in Costa Rica. No doubt about it, there are definitely differences in the way “WE” do things, and the ways “THEY” do. From architectural design to construction techniques; labor laws and tools used (or lack thereof); you end up treading some pretty distinct waters.  Here are a few lessons we’ve learned so far...

COMMUNICATION IS KEY

I speak spanish, but the first thing Jeff and I completely agreed upon was the need to hire a

bilingual architect/contractor (they’re one in the same here). Why? Because first of all, my construction vocabulary is nil in both languages ~ let alone my understanding of building concepts. I would have been useless. I also didn’t want to be the go-between and end up running a crew. The last thing a guy wants to hear is how to do something differently, and coming from a woman, no less. I’m no fool. Fortunately we found an Ecuadorian architect who’d been trained in New Jersey, so he understands both countries’ perspectives on building. It’s worked out great, and who knows?  It may have saved a marriage.

JACKS OF ALL TRADES

In my biased (and adoring) mind, Jeff can pretty much do it all. He designed the house, taught himself to draw up the plans on computer, and now goes off “to work” every day as excited as ever. He’s building the fireplaces and indoor pizza oven while the crew builds the walls up around him and couldn’t be happier. Best of all, though, we’ve got incredibly talented friends who have guided him through what he doesn’t know - from masonry to plumbing to electricity. His buddies may not be here, but they’ve certainly been right there for Jeff on Skype and Facetime, readily sharing their expertise. 

Our master timber-framer friend Bob actually has come all the way down to work. He's been up there building one-of-a-kind rafters and trusses, all the while acclimating to the 10,800 ft. elevation. No doubt, the Ecuadorian crew have been intrigued, and often befuddled, at Bob’s precision and craft. Still, they’ve shown great interest in the unique way in 
                                                 which he brings it all together. Very cool.

THE RIGHT TOOLS

Jeff’s mantra: No matter what you’re doing, you’ve gotta have the right tools. Of course, he didn’t have any when we first arrived, and little by little has had to set himself up. The boys on the job, however, somehow manage to get things accomplished with very few to work with. It might not turn out as quickly or precisely, but the end result is always pretty great. They’ve borrowed Jeff’s tools when wanting to expedite things, but otherwise, they’re incredibly clever at just making it work.

WHERE WOULD WE BE WITHOUT OUR FRIENDS?   
                                                                              

Once again, we’re incredibly grateful to have great friends. Yet another couple, Karl and Brenda, were coming down to Cuenca to live. And what did they ever so graciously bring for us in their container? Oh, just ‘little” things like a dishwasher, kitchen and bath plumbing fixtures ~ along with a wood stove and radiant heat flooring supplies. Jeff is determined to keep me warm up there, so we’ve now got everything we need to take the chill off; and we’ll have special touches we might not otherwise have had. Now that’s a blessing.

No, I’ve got that wrong. The blessing isn’t only in the finer trappings, but in the fact that we’ve got such special friends who have each had a hand in the building of our home. We can't wait to be toasting them, the talented crew, and the architect/contractor 
in December when we expect to 
move in. And with any luck, they’ll all be there together with us at our very first pizza and chancho (roast pig) party! As they say here, ¡Ojalá que sí!  (Sure do hope so!)

Why WOULDN'T You? Part Two

Blame it on the Libra in me, but making decisions isn’t always easy. I go back and forth, back and forth, weighing the pros and cons ~ until finally coming to a choice that I know is just right. I then dive in, expecting only the best to happen and for everything naturally to fall into place. Somehow it usually does.

No matter where we go, or whatever the decision, I really do think that the magic is in our expectations. I’ve had the chance to live in several countries, and at this point I can pretty well spot right away which expats are going to succeed, and those who most likely will not, based on what they appear to expect out of the experience. Some arrive full of life, minds and eyes fully open, totally psyched about their new adventure. And others? Not so much. It makes me wonder why they’ve come in the first place. Was it to escape the political situation back home? For financial reasons? Medical? Whatever the reasons, they don’t seem to have done their “due diligence”. It’s easy enough to research a potential destination thoroughly online, but more importantly, it’s

essential to know one’s own self and one’s needs. It's also helpful to try to envision yourself living in the distinct environment to see if it’s “a match".  Sure, there’s no way to anticipate everything, but at least those steps are good start. It's probably best of course, to visit the place to get acquainted first. In this, Jeff and I were probably not all that wise. We just jumped in and went down to Costa Rica and bought a house within the first week, and then moved on to Cuenca with four suitcases without ever having seen it. I guess we're not so good "looking before we leap”, though I promise that we did do our “due diligence” in those other ways. Oh, well. It seems to work for us! 

No doubt, relatively inconsequential things like Changing Weather and living in a country with a different Language would most likely not scare anyone with high expectations away. Nor will the following I’ll talk about ~ Boredom and Creature Comforts ~  be deal-breakers either, in and of themselves.  But again, our needs, tolerances, expectations, and attitudes have a direct impact on our success, and even more so in a foreign country. It’s at least something to think about.

BOREDOM

Even with all the activities, museums, and cultural events available here in Cuenca, retirement is retirement no matter where you are. Suddenly

you’re learning to fill your days in completely different ways ~ exciting for some and daunting for others. I’ve mentioned before that Jeff had became terribly bored here in the city, despite all its offerings. He’s one of those hands-on, physically active guys (read: ADHD candidate?), who gets up every morning and needs to build or fix something. Forget the museums and the symphonies, that’s just not him. I, on the other hand, love all that stuff but am also very content at my computer, cleaning house, getting together with friends, reading or writing. Boredom isn’t even a blip on my radar screen, but it definitely was for Jeff. For some reason I’ve seen it more in the men we know - they simply need to move. Hmmm... In any case, again, my advice is to “know thyself” and jump into whatever makes you happy and keeps you growing.

OF CREATURE COMFORTS & INSTANT GRATIFICATION

There’s nothing like living overseas to make you realize just how much the U.S. and Canada are truly “lands of plenty”. Every time I go back and enter a store, I’m completely blown away by the quantity and quality of goods everywhere. It's actually overwhelming. Talk about this Libra trying to make a choice. Yikes!

Ecuador is also a land of plenty, but in different ways. Here, most material things are available, though not excessive in terms of choice. Not that you need to compromise on quality, because there are often good-better-best options, just not as many.  For us, though, having “stuff” is no longer a priority.We’re extremely fortunate to have our needs met and live comfortably, so now being “full” in life is much more important. The beauty of this city and this country is astounding. Getting to enjoy the incredible blend of indigenous and hispanic cultures makes us feel rich beyond words. And most valuable of all, we’re really seeing and feeling life for the first time - away from the hurried pressures of the States. Even retired, I’m not sure if that would be true if we still lived there. 

Everything is just plain slower here. And though for us that’s a good

thing, for someone else it might be too nerve-wracking to deal with long-term. Getting any kind of business done is liable to take more than one try, and service may be slower than we’re used to. That instant

gratification thing we’ve got going simply doesn’t work down here (nor anywhere else in Latin America I know of). At first that’s an adjustment most of us struggle with. In all our impatience our blood pressure rises as we become frustrated and angry. Venting it the way we’re accustomed to simply doesn’t work down here and won’t get you any farther. Good old-fashioned patience and respectful behavior are the only options you’ve got. I like it!

To be totally honest, I personally only know of only a few people who have left Cuenca to return to North America so far, and their reasons were attributed to some of the above along with other strident personal concerns. My purpose for writing really is to point out some of the greatest overall complaints I hear, because no place is ever perfect. For some they may be deal-breaking; for most, not at all. I go back to my original premise: know thyself and thy needs, know thy destination, have high expectations for success, and definitely have a great, open attitude. You can’t help but lose!

RELOCATING TO CUENCA ~ Why WOULDN'T You?

Without a doubt, Cuenca is a burgeoning destination for retirees, especially for North Americans. I’ve often mentioned its most attractive features and benefits. But what are the “down” sides that would make someone turn right back around and leave? 

Yes, it happens. People take the big leap to make a new home here, only to decide that Cuenca simply isn't "a match" for them. But why? Here's my take on a few considerations.

THE WEATHER

One of the running jokes you’ll hear about Cuenca is that you get to experience spring, summer, and fall all in one day ~ every day.  One minute you’ll be walking down the street enjoying (or sweating through) the intense heat of the sun, only to feel an immediate switch to cool under a fast moving wave of wind and clouds. You put on that sweater. Minutes later you're whipping out the umbrella to deal with a flash onslaught of rain. Then you smile. In the distance you spot bright blue sky and sunshine to step back into. Geesh! 

June through September the temperatures drop significantly at night. We typically like to hang out on the terrace as if it were summer, but these months bring such clear, dry air that it forces us to hunker down and break out the propane space heater to be comfortable. At least the sunsets and starry night sky are beautiful.

By making a habit of carrying a light sweater/jacket and umbrella, you're guaranteed to be fine. But most of all, prepare yourself with a good attitude. The weather rarely stops us in our tracks, but it does get pretty gray for longer periods of time than we’d like sometimes. I like to think it only makes us appreciate the sunshine all the more.

LANGUAGE

Yes, Spanish is the native tongue. For some ridiculous reason that fact seems to come as a surprise to a few who land here, and occasionally I hear of some rude expat having demanded that locals speak English. Thankfully it's rare, but boy, I find myself wanting to tell them where to go...oops... where else to go (!) Most people we know have come with the best intentions to make every effort to learn. Not only is that wise, but naturally, it's also respectful of one’s new country and its people.

Jeff and I are fortunate in that I learned Spanish somewhat by fluke by
getting my first teaching job in Guatemala. There I was on the streets, desperately needing to express my extrovert self. I tried formal courses, but was overwhelmed amidst trying to establish myself professionally at the same time. Hence, I learned by immersion - with a really cute non-English speaking boyfriend and his family, no less. Ahhh, Manuel, such fond memories... Anyway, later I moved on to a job in Barcelona and improved my grammar somewhat. I still don’t speak perfectly, especially with those tricky grammatical twists that don't exist in English. Still, I can “defend myself” fairly well, as the saying goes in spanish.

I won’t lie. It’s no picnic - especially when you first arrive. Negotiating your way around to set up services like banking, internet, telephone, and TV can be totally frustrating. Yet still, all of our friends have gotten it done. But how?

Spanish for Gringos. I love this introductory book by William C. Harvey, M.S.
Simple, fun, and easy to understand.

• One thing I’ve noticed is that often at least one partner in every couple either has a basic foundation in Spanish, is highly motivated to learn, and/or both. When both are learning, many couples break off into different classes in order to learn at their own paces and to avoid competing with each other.

• Many Cuencanos are bilingual. Some have been exchange students or have worked in North America, while others learned in school here. A growing number offer their services as translators and will help you to acquire whatever is needed, from finding an apartment to getting your internet set up. They may charge $15 or so per hour, and can be worth every penny. Also, more and more businesses are expressly hiring bilingual employees to accommodate the huge influx of English-speaking foreigners. What a help that can be!

So, is it possible to get by without attempting to learn Spanish? Yes, but not preferable. You can easily settle into your network of expats friends and not interact much with your Ecuadorian hosts at all. But why would you want to? You’d simply miss out on knowing some of the warmest and wonderful people ever.  

I’ll be covering a few more reasons in the next blog as to why some expats may decide that Cuenca isn’t the place for them. We’re all searching for our personal paradise, and every place has its ups and downs; pluses and minuses. It’s a matter of knowing who you are and what you need, and what you can and cannot tolerate when making any place your home. Join me in what’s up next. If you’re considering a move to Cuenca, maybe it’ll enlighten you. And if not, hopefully it'll just give you a clearer vision of what it’s all about.

BREAKING DOWN AND CAMPING OUT

It’s been the same old song ever since purchasing the property last July; Jeff was determined to camp out amid its pine trees. From my perspective, the likelihood of that happening was fairly remote, so this “city chick” (as he loves to call me), cheerfully humored him. I swear, I tried to hold out as long as I could.

Now don’t get the wrong impression ~ ask anyone and they’ll more than likely tell you I’m not really the princess or prima donna type. But still, my former camping days pretty much amounted to “roughing it” in a real camper or RV. You know - the ones with microwaves, TV’s and comfy mattresses kind.

And yet it was that I finally broke down. We hit the local department store to pick up some last minute provisions like pots, pans, and plastic dishes, and then there I was - dare I say it? - almost excited to be piling the truck with the tent, sleeping bags, and every other thing we could think of needing.

By the time we got there, it was a crystal blue afternoon at 10,800 feet high, the sun bearing directly down on us. Still, we had the perfect view of the light puffy clouds below drifting through the valley.

We pitched the tent together, and I blew up the air mattresses and washed the new pots and pans, while Jeff set up the fire pit. He even set up a great “latrine with a view”. What more could I want? Oh my word, I thought. We’re actually camping!

Sitting with my wine in hand and Jeff with his cocktail, we toasted to our future up here where nature couldn’t get any purer. Minutes later Jeff hopped onto his tractor, and I returned to writing this blog. Bliss. If this is any sign of the peace to come, I’m loving it.

Then came time for cocktail hour and our first sunset. The pink-orange of the sun teasingly peeked out from the clouds below us, slowly melting to where we could see it no more. Minutes later the silence was broken. Dusk apparently signals the birds and tree frogs to share their presence, because all of a sudden there was a grand cacophony of song, only to become silent once again within the half hour. Very cool.

NIGHTFALL

Cheese, crackers, rotisserie chicken and a lovely fire - the only thing we’d forgotten were the S’mores. Dang! And then a sprinkle, which soon turned into a light rain. No problem. We tucked into the sleeping bags and hunkered down, I with the iPad to read, and Jeff with his Kindle. Life is good!

I have to admit, the rest of the night wasn’t the best for sleeping. I quickly learned the air mattress definitely needs to be filled to the max if we don’t want our backs to break, and that I couldn’t let my nose and face pop out of the bag unless I wanted them to be chilled off. But otherwise it worked out fine, and well worth it when we woke up to sunshine covering the pleats of the green valley below. Jeff got the fire going again, and soon we were dining on bacon, eggs, avocado and toast. Hot coffee in hand, we lingered for a bit to take it all in.

I know now that this “city chick” will probably jump next time when her husband wants to go camping. Lesson learned, though ~ the S’more fixings are coming with us!

NEW HORIZONS FOR OUR NUEVOS AMIGOS

Not so long ago we arrived in Cuenca to settle in for (what we certainly expect to be) the rest of our lives. There was so much to do - find an apartment, a reputable bank, telephone service. But in between all that scouting, we also “played tourist”, and hopped on the red City Bus Tour to get a lay of the land.

On that bus happened to be a giggly honeymooning couple from Texas, Karl and Brenda. Karl had scoped out the city a few years ago as a possible retirement destination on his own, and then he met his new love Brenda. This time he was here to share it with her, now in hopes that she’d fall in love with the city, too. Would Brenda leave her thriving career to take the leap with him? Could she?

That’s a huge question for anyone considering moving permanently to a foreign country. For many, it’s a leap so fraught with anxiety-producing challenges that most would conclude that there’d be no way. But consider it Brenda did, and soon after they returned to the U.S., they put their house in Texas up for sale. 

Fast-forward a year plus, and here they are, celebrating the arrival. We call it “their turn”. For Jeff and I it’s a bonus that they’ve been staying with us - thoroughly enjoying being part of their adventure, and sharing the heady ups and downs of the move. No doubt about it, like so many others who have come before, you’re torn between the excitement of it all, and the whole batch of whirlwind decision-making you’re thrown into. Worse yet, it’s all got to get done as quickly as possible.

Of course, the primary concern is finding a place to live. You would think that renting an apartment would be easy with all these beautiful buildings, but not necessarily. We were lucky to have followed the advice of another ex-pat (on that same city bus tour!) and hired the services of an awesome english-speaking agent to help us. Sweet Maribel was happy to do the same for Karl and Brenda. In our eyes, she’s a miracle worker. She knows the more desirable areas, and what’s available out there. Many apartments are already furnished, which narrows options if you’re bringing in a container, or if you like the apartment itself but not the furniture. North Americans also tend to treasure outdoor space such as terraces, but those are very hard to find. Thankfully after scouting out several places, Maribel found a place that works nicely for them.

Meanwhile, another big question is where to put your money. There are banks, and also there are credit unions typically called cooperativas. Some have better reputations than others, and you need to tease it out. Then the big questions are, “How safe are the banks here?” and, “How much should we put in?” Those are really important questions, but if you don’t know anyone, how do you know? Any guidance you can get from others is helpful, but of course, the decisions you make are very personal. At this point CD’s earn significantly more interest than in the U.S., which is a bonus. Most are covered by the equivalent of our FDIC called COSEDE. Our personal take on it is that our money is just as safe here barring any outrageous failing of the world economy, the event in which we'd all be affected, ~ and at least it’s making good money for us now.

Getting set up with cell service is also high on the list of “to do’s” when you arrive. You’re probably envisioning a simple get in and get out kind of deal to do it, but of course, that's not necessarily so. When I went with Karl and Brenda it reminded me of how glad I was not to have had a first born child to give up, because at any moment I expected they’d ask. They request everything - passports, bank accounts, international credit cards, utility bills, references with land lines only ~ all,or none, of which they might ultimately accept. The process with Karl and Brenda went into a second day, with hours of waiting each time. But as things are wont to happen, they may be slow in Latin America, but almost always things eventually go through. 

This good luck rainbow appeared outside our window yesterday morning, and Karl and Brenda moved into their apartment last night. They’ve got a container on the way, so for the time being they’re “camping in”. They’ve been troopers through this first phase of what feels like lunacy, and yet I often feel compelled to assure them how great it’ll be once they’re all settled in. It’s definitely both exciting and overwhelming at the same time. Trying to get things accomplished without spanish as a second language doesn't make it any easier. Fortunately Karl’s a quick study and is well on his way, so the main ingredients to success are already there ~ great attitudes, respect for this beautiful culture, major patience, and adaptability. They’re off to a fabulous start!

FOOTNOTE: Last night a segment was aired on ABC News entitled "American Retirees Find Paradise in Ecuador".Our good friends Edd and Cynthia were featured, and Jeff and I even got a 5 second blip on the screen with John Quiñones. Such excitement! If interested, check it out on www.abcnews.go.com , and look for the video. What a hoot!

BUILDING A NEST IN THE ANDES

We’ve owned our Ecuadorian property for just about about a year now, and this was the first official week for the “construction kick-off”. The excavator is clearing way for the foundation, and Jeff’s gleefully running around on his new tractor. “We’re actually building a house in the Andes!” I say to myself.  Who would’ve thunk?

I love living in Cuenca. It’s just the right size for me, easy to navigate anywhere on foot, by taxi, bus, or car. It may be relatively small for some, but I love how it offers just about everything you need - from access to everyday necessities to great restaurants, to really cool cultural events. It’s pretty much all here for the taking if you choose to take advantage of it.

But alas, as I may have mentioned in earlier blogs, city life just doesn’t hold the same appeal for my husband Jeff. He loves Cuenca, too, but is just too physical a guy to be stuck in an apartment all day. The better part of the first year was fine with all the flurry of activity of settling in, but soon boredom snuck up on him. "I can only sit in front of the computer for so long," he'd say. "Let's get out of here and take a drive or something!"

Now of course, I’ll follow my husband just about anywhere. And yes,

too, enjoyed the drives, but personally I often felt like I’d walked away from “my things” - writing, working out, reading, and even cleaning the house (which believe it or not, I actually like to do!) I’m a “nester”, and I’m okay with keeping myself busy with every day things. But I could see his body itching, and I knew we needed more. He needs to wake up, get going, create and build. I need that too, but more so in my head. 

I have to admit, though, I’m excited to be going over to his side. Our new land is actually part of a larger farm - horses, deer and all. Jeff’s been designing the house, and to see it come to fruition on computer has admittedly been really amazing.

All my life, I’d always moved into already-built apartments or houses. Granted, I’d make them my own in terms of decorating, but now I know that isn’t the same. Jeff’s giving me carte blanche to get creative and choose all materials on the inside, as I did with him on the outside. Of course, we’ve both reserved the right to say “no way!” if we feel really strongly about something. We’re fully aware that house building can be a couple’s undoing, and nothing could ever be worth that for either of us.

So now that dear friends who have brought down a container with a few major items tough to get here like radiant heating supplies and a wood stove (yes, the nights can get chilly up there at 10,500 feet!) we’re vibrating with anticipation. I promise to keep you updated on our progress once in awhile. In the meantime, if you’re so inclined, wish us luck ~ we’re sure going to need it!

THE CHERRIES ON TOP Final Chapters of The Great Galápagos Adventure

Just when we thought it couldn’t get any better, little did we know that the best-of-the best was still awaiting us. We’d had some easy going read-your-book and kayak around-the-bay days in between, but the true highlights of the trip were yet to come.

The first took place at “Playa La Fe” (Faith Beach), a hidden paradise not normally featured in the local tour shops. We were offered the unique chance to be taken there by a boat captain and island guide Luis, and boy, did he ever treat us
                                                                   to a very special paradise.

We cruised along, enjoying the coastal view for about a half hour. When he slowed down, strangely, all we could see was a thin, black, getty-like line of rocks. Luis took his time, carefully riding in on the low tide waves and into a cove. Pristine emerald water beneath us, we’d just entered into the most magical estuary we’d ever seen. Sea lions, marine iguanas, pelicans and frigates lazed contentedly on the rocks on the sides of this narrow canal. Still, we couldn’t see a beach and I started to wonder if it even existed. Then we turned left, and tucked into themangrove was a tiny little “beach” area ~ larger now because it was low tide, but you could see clearly how most of it would fill in later to the tide line.

We settled in, and  Luis took us for an even greater surprise through a

tough-going rocky path of black volcanic rocks behind the site. Incredible in itself, I could imagine the original red-hot lava flowing to the sea at the island’s birth. Making it through to the other side, it opened up to the open sea. We were stunned. Marine iguanas were everywhere - large and small; out in the open, and tucked under the rocks beneath our feet. It was wild. Luis recommended we come back later at higher tide, because he said right now most were out feeding in the water. We did, and again, it was just pure fascination.

Luis took us snorkeling in the canal, and we traveled along, enjoying the

myriad of lovely fish living in the volcanic rocks on the sides. Luis brought us a sea urchin, and placed it in my hand. Tan and brown with a touch of white, it felt slightly prickly. He motioned underwater to flip my palm over. It stuck! We all took turns, and Luis made sure we didn’t take it out of the water in order to protect it. We then continued on, seeing a sleeping manta ray, more gorgeous and curious fish, and a sea turtle flying gently by. 

We alternated between the beach and snorkeling, but were more often in than out. The iguanas stayed just feet away. Most beautiful was a mother sea lion and her pup, nursing in the mangroves. We could hear their hoarse, excited barks - especially when the baby must have bit mom’s nipple. So, so fascinating. What a treat.

The best, though, was when a playful sea lion pup came over to us and started playing, weaving through us all as we stood in the water. Oh, my gosh, it was the BEST! I moved away to snorkel on my own, and she came up and swam with me. She darted this way and that, dashing sleekly around and under me. I played with her, and mimicked her, stretching my arms out over my head. She teased me so, and I wanted to run my hand down that long, beautiful belly (button and all!) but I wouldn’t out of respect. Just as curious, I swear she wanted to touch me, too. And that face with her little ear flaps - so adorable. But then she shot away. Minutes later she was back, teasing as if to say, “Come on, let’s play again!” Truly magical.

We took Luis’s advice and went back over to the other side. He was right. Iguanas were everywhere! It was hard to avoid them, and sometimes if you got too close they’d spit out their nose or tick their heads back and forth in warning. The larger ones did that to the smaller ones in domination, too. Some were darker, and others were orange and rainbow-colored with cool spiky crests. When they swam, they tucked their clawed arms sleekly by their sides and navigate with their tails. Fascinating. 

It was surreal to be part of this wondrous natural scene in which sea lions, iguanas, pelicans, crabs, blue-footed boobies and more all hung out together in their own private paradise. What a precious gift we’d been given. Muchas gracias, Luis!